nothing stays steady. The only way to confirm RFI problems is by doing a data log. Hang in there--you can do it. Thanks. Your issues are likely related to one of these two things. close to idle with the IAC between 2% & 12%. Since the shield was put on, not a single problem, not one. Thank you very much. Get that thing installed and you're going to know a whole lot more about what's going on. If you are idling at 2100 RPM (based on a default IAC Hold position of 30%) and your target idle speed is 900, then the ECU is not going to try to idle down. itself out and hold idleeventually stalling. (Plus they it just looks way cool in your engine compartment!) 400 engine, C6 3 speed automatic, with standard canister coil for ignition, and I've made all the adjustments, all the settings, and the IAC issue is driving me crazy. Cl. 90% of problems, (INCLUDING MYSELF) could be answered/fixed by just reading the instructions. Hey Chris Is that normal? After only running for about 15 minutes or so the system starts to fail stalling the motor. If the vendor from whom you bought the system is coming up blank on ideas then don't hesitate to contact Holley's outstanding tech support department directly at 866-464-6553. If you patiently adjust this over the course of days you will get it just right.Again, glad this is working for you and look forward to a good report in the future! As I said above, you could have a bad IAC, but then again, the IAC might be fine and there's a deeper problem such as RFI noise causing the issue or a vacuum leak that is confusing things. What must remain foremost in your mind is that the only thing that can cause the idle to increase is additional air getting into the engine. I would suspect something is coming loose causing a stop to the EFI system/Fuel flow. Only show this user . I have verified that there are no vacuum leaks, not to mention the car runs to good to have a vacuum leak bad enough to make this noise. I recommend confirming there is no throttle linkage issue first. Kind of cuts into forum time. Take a drive and stop somewhere for 30 minutes, CTS is 170 when engine was shutoff. During after-start idle, the idle will jump up to about 70% if the engine is cold, stay there about 4 seconds and then ramp down to the target idle speed for the current engine temperature. :-). In the warm state IAC adjusted to a position of 2 to 10%. Your task will be to find that. When I am coming to a stop, the rpms will hang at 1200-1500 rpms. Next, reach down into the secondaries and push the butterflies closed. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. After a complete cool down it will do the same thing. idle at 1100 on the "stock" file it's better with street strip.The IAC counts will be at zero. Or, at least, it should. This page was generated at 12:25 AM. At low levels RF interference will often reset the ECU so quickly that the engine will not stall. However, I did have another fellow who contacted me that claims he went through three units before he could get one that would talk between the ECU and the Monitor. You should get a light spray evenly distributed in all four barrels. Could the IAC be broken/malfunctioning? I think I figured some of my problems outI'll try to explain. First, I'm kind of insistent about not changing any of the default settings unless the vehicle absolutely will not cooperate enough to drive/learn, and only then if you have a specific understanding of the problem and a specific solution. Now, in my lifetime of experience with Holley ECU's that seems unlikely, but this guy sounded really sharp and had nothing to gain by convincing me of his dilemma. Save Share. Cheers Darren. Let me start with the engine not starting until you press the throttle. Tps is saying 26% when it at idle. I installed a Holley Sniper on my Ford Maverick 302 V8. Two months fighting, cursing, not getting any help from Holley OR the forum, and a stupid little tin plate. After it starts it idles around my 960rpm setting + or - 100rpm. There is no real mystery here. Ensure all your sensors are displaying proper values. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JpHlS1ymBc, If this is your first visit, be sure to
I have changed my roc/tps to 7 from 15 but that only took me out of learn mode. The last pic is with the car in Drive. Not that I noticed. First, recognize that the amount below your target where you set the hard idle will be different on different engines. Turning off and then on again, the engine returns to normal. That changes almost instantly as the engine revs.Since the learning algorithm requires some time exposure to a certain condition to make larger changes, that half-second makes only the smallest impact. It is reliant on the data acquired by the included wideband oxygen sensor. That is not the way to go. To keep it running in gear, I have to bump the neutral idle up just over 1000 RPM. Car was running great initially. Now it registers zero and I have good idle but it will not register until it hits 60 and up. So check that timing and I think that you're going to find you need a good bit of advance. Don't know if I should put this in a separate post. It will need to see it again and again. The link above includes the option to buy a -6 AN There are two ways to address this--you can let the system learn or you can manually adjust the acceleration enrichment. I managed to get the IAC down to around 0% - 8%is this good? I didn't find your site until I was having trouble. I enalble the idle timing control and fired it back up Iac was at 32% but it would come back down after a bit to around 26%. When you have the issue you should disconnect all hoses and plug the ports on the Sniper. And if you're going to go this route I'd recommend that you switch from "Simple" (3 A/F targets, one each for Idle, Cruise, and WOT) and go to the 2-D Table (If you do this you will need to reset the -40 degree setting mentioned at the top of this article. However I do have a couple of issues I hope you can help me resolve. The throttle plates are misaligned. One way is to very carefully watch the handheld monitor, and that may be adequate. Realize that when you drop the throttle, the engine enters a condition it will only see for a fraction of a second at a time. Its just at low speeds, not sure if its loading up or leaning out. However, I always preach to never touch any of the controls on the handheld until you have a couple hundred miles on the engine in a range of driving situations. Price Point: $$$. I have not heard of this. Simply go to those cells, tweak them up or down as required, and the ECU should now be able to learn its way around the bog. I would not expect that an electric fan would create a noticeable load on the engine but if it did then you'd want to set the idle screw when the fan was not running. Okay, try my method. Intermittent stalling usually points to radio frequency or electro-magnetic intereference (RFI/EMI). Please give this a try and let us know how it works! First thing I would check As you have noted, each time the idle goes up. Drives just fine but won't stay running unless I keep my foot on the gas. I recommend you have a look:https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pro-hangout/holley-sniper-efi-instruction/solving-sniper-rfi-problems, I recently purchased your fixed linkage to open primaries first and the throttle linkage extender to also get a smoother pedal. Going in the direction you did (higher) is going to reduce the acceleration fueling that the engine sees. mean that the IAC is causing it. Solution #1 Put car in gear take off and the engine runs GREAT, no issues drive for 10minutes take car out of gear and engine idles correctly IAC between 2 and 5 Solution #2 Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. It's not necessary to drive it that way. Watch videos on installation hints and if you haven't yet, download & read every Sniper installation guide you can find online. It's a Chevy 350 bored .030" over it has a cam in it what I was told is the cam has the firing order swapped. the gas it catches itself and runs fine at slower speeds. Car has run perfect every time and has never hesitated or stalled since. Once engine is warmed up been driving for awhile. I had a customer who struggled to understand that. If you have any questions about the car/setup let me know. Can the return line be an issue?So far this sounds like an ideal setup.>I have had 2 faulty gpa-4 255 walbro pumps go bad. I have a Holley Sniper for almost 11 month now and it was running fine with no problems until now. The jack-rabbit start can usually be minimized by adjusting the throttle linkage. I'm happy to walk you through what is required. I, too, wish you'd bought your Sniper from us! My sniper is doing two thingsFirst issue, the idle is set at 800 and will idle fine, then There is a glitch in the system. I would start by removing the progressive linkage. I have checked the pink wire and it is at .001 volts when key is off. But when you have it then you can look for exactly what the IAC is doing at that point, and if there is anything that might lead to this happening. When running it will only stay in closed loop and learn at idle. Eventually the IAC will drop back to zero, I'll readjust it to 850 RPM & 2-9%, and then watch it steadily climb again. When I put it in gear, it drops so low that it will stall if I don't add throttle. I'll bet you find that you can get it working great without any manual tuning. With an assistant pressing the accelerator, you need to make sure that when the accelerator is pressed to WOT that the throttle blades are fully opened, and when accelerator is lifted the linkage is fully at rest against the idle speed screw. But now that Terminator X is available, I highly recommend going that route. applies here because it is so important to realize that just because the IAC One of them might be faulty. One additional wrap on the secondary coiled shaft spring is all that's necessary. :-). But as you see from the recent revision I did above you seem to be having a fixable issue. The first 250-300 miles were amazing as the Sniper EFI worked flawlessly. If it is then something is commanding the ECU to open the IAC. It might be necessary to insulate or re-route your fuel lines if this can't be solved any other way. Intake has been on and off 3 times no change. You advise would be greatly appreciated. I did all of this before seeing the link you sent. Everything was working perfectly and I shut off the engine. During cruising at 30 miles and release the gas pedal the engine revs at aproximaly 1500 RPM and it won't drop. May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ. That I am at the point where I almost insist that every Sniper EFI System owner purchase one of these. I never had a problem with this. Use the idle speed screw to set the idle at a comfortable warm-up speed. When you key on, you will hear three distinct sounds: The ECU initializing the IAC, the fuel pump priming, and the injectors firing their prime shot. I recently detached the TP sensor from the side of the sniper to physically move it and it still would struggle to get to 0%. I have an entirely separate article on Solving RF Intereference Issues. If you have an installation or start-up issue that is nagging you then please use the comments section to reply and we will gladly provide more information that we hope will be useful to you. There are six different acceleration enrichment tables that you can tweak and that may be the way to go. Observing the temperature on the 3.5-inch handheld (only), wait for the temperature to achieve 160 degrees F. Once above 160 degrees, turn the idle speed screw so that the idle is about 50 RPM below your target idle speed set in step 1, above. any ideas? is jumping all over the place when you experience this condition, it does not One thing you need to sync the timing and set the inductive delay. We've already tried adjusting the Acceleration Enrichment chart in all ways, going up and down, RoC Blanking, everything, it has no effect. Thank you so much for your follow-up. Thanks again for your insights! I went on the good ole interweb and found your website which was VERY helpful! When I covered the IAC with my finger, the RPM dropped so low it stalled. However, whenever you start changing things, you can get into a chain reaction. Holley Sniper EFI Troubleshooting Mudford Garage 8.6K subscribers 38K views 3 years ago My Bronco with Holley Sniper EFI was running poorly. Cycled the ignition off. It could be, but that seems unlikely.Instead, you need to look at the basics. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I haven't driven it for the 30-40 minutes like the several times it idled at 2200. I've not heard of any others with this exact issue so I don't think it is a common problem. Repeat until that stumble goes away, and then try a bit more throttle. If But if I take off from a stop and go to 1/4 or 1/2 throttle its fine and takes off like a banshee. Often, folks will say, "I did everything you said. If either of these is not the case it must be remedied.After you have done this then you might want to involve Holley Tech Support about the TPS, or it may be easier/faster just to visit the local auto parts store and pick up a new TPS and install it. Reply Quote. I am having an issue with the IAC on the Sniper. So I have been doing the slow take offs and thinking that it would learn its way out. I got it home, checked it all over, everything is hooked up correctly. Having a TPS that won't go lower than 9% will affect the acceleration enrichment correction, and could create a stumble at the first moment of throttle opening.Yes, the IAC can and will fluctuate depending on changing conditions. Then it will ramp down to 1200 but will not return to idle. Copyright 2017 Cyberspace Automotive Performance, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Again, I would lean on that solution to let the vehicle drive/learn before you try to "fix" anything. That is certainly not normal! And thanks again for taking your time to answer these questions. I can tell you that when things aren't working the way you wanted them to work that nothing beats knowing for-sure that you don't have a fuel supply problem. It is made by one of the biggest names in fuel filters and sold under the Parts Master label so it is quality and great price in one. You mentioned going from 13.5 to 14.2 but you'd want to go in the other direction--maybe to 13.2. On EFI systems such as Holley's Sniper, all of the EFI sensors (except for the O2 and coolant temperature sender) are mounted snuggly in the throttle body. Running new vintage air system so the is only a single power wire to compressor thats why I asked if I needed to run input wire to ac relay or if iac would pick it up fast enough(which its not). When the idle speed screw is turned all the way out there should be just enough room between the bore and the blade to catch your fingernail. I received from the controller manufacturer greatly understates (at best) the repeated failures of others I know personally who have tried and failed. Either the Walbro pumps you are getting are not genuine (lots of forgeries being sold) or else you have something that is killing them. You might have a bad O2 sensor, really bad exhaust leak or a problem with the ECU. Definitely would have went with you guys. When I see that your TPS is 1%, that tells me that you may have an RFI problem. Does anyone have photos of this additional return spring they installed? The team at EFI pro are some of the best I have ever dealt with when coming to ordering parts or having the knowledge to answer any question you may have. Will restart but only for a minute or so a couple of times then shuts down fuel delivery and will not restart. The fix? I think that your Sniper system is working fine but would definitely check ouf the fuel pump. The problem I'm having is I cant get the IAC to drop down off 100%. After a stall the car will restart but will be in a high idle. The RPM would increase for no reason. What might cause the TPS to go to 2%? holley efi. It could be a couple of things. Yes, having an accurate TPS is very important at idle. That's what you're seeing. Going lower with the blanking might pay dividends, but there is so little room below 7/8 that you will quickly be in a range where every tiny variation in the TPS or MAP is throwing extra fuel into the engine. It is simply for the benefit of the user. It sounds like you need a bit more of a fuel squirt on acceleration, Brett. I have adjusted many settings and eventually mess it up and go back to the original map. Thanks in advance for any advice. issue. If it is not a problem with the Sniper EFI System itself then it could be an issue with some sort of harmonic involving the fuel pump. It could be a problem with the power/ground for the Sniper but much more commonly this is a result of too much RFI. The IAC is hanging open and not really at 0. Let me be perfectly clear: If your engine will not drop below 1350 RPM with the idle speed screw turned all the way out then you have an air leak. A common issue we see is a result of poor fuel pump grounding running a eyelet from the pump ground to a rusty or painted surface. It could be that you've left a vacuum port unplugged, it could be that the throttle plates are misaligned (unlikely), it could be that your IAC is not closing properly. If I keep the rpm's up it does fine but my clutch can't keep up with this for long.Also when I cover the IAC port the engine dies. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. Put a strong piece of tape over the IAC breather hole--duct tape or something that couldn't possibly be sucked into the throttle body. Well, it turns out that with the current firmware this throws the IAC control into a bit of confusion. I've increased the IAC rampdown time to 8 seconds to try to combat this, but wondering if it will correct itself over time or if I need to possibly replace this TP sensor. This is a mighty big subject for a blog post reply, I should probably start doing some videos on this. In this short video you learn to replace the IAC. We're never going to fill up your email box with nonsense. Your comment doesn't imply any sort of problem that would make me give up on idle timing control. Should the iac% fluctuate? But another thing to consider is adjusting your target A/F ratio. ?I never had my Carb Cold start RPM any higher then 1600 RPM.THANK YOU. Chris thank you for the info. In addition to avoiding this particular problem, the total solution is much better. first attempt but as it tries to idle down to the target RPMsit can never even IAC percentage is 5 to 10% when idling with fans on, What you're experiencing is the delay time between the ECU sensing the additional load and the IAC actually increasing the RPM. Um, no. Contact whomever sold you your system or Holley directly. when things aren't working and this provides just that. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. that my Air/Fuel ration was 15:1 and I believe the target is 13.5:1. Let's start by not assuming anything. I have installed my Sniper and the car runs great. Hey Chris! If this is the case then some adjustment of the linkage or the butterfly plates themselves is necessary. Without it you are working in the dark. If you have somehow overlooked this, start here: Holley Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions: Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the idle speed can be set to what was configured in the Wizard. Pricing was reasonable, shipping was prompt and Chris helped me with a wiring question during my install. Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. I asked him a million questions and waited a long time to save up before purchasing the system and I have asked a lot of questions throughout the installation process. This curve runs fom -40 degrees to 260 degrees, and gradually reduces the RPM along that range. Holley documentation and videos didn't work and the $300 I paid for "expert" tuning didn't work either. There's still a very small amount of airflow that squeezes past a closed IAC valve; it's that venturi like sound you're hearing. Great work, expert! At any rate, once the setting was moved up, the RPM jumped right to the target RPM and was solved. Duration @.050 is 240 intake 246 exhaust with .574/.578 lift. The Tech Tips and discussions are also great! Note: The IAC breather hole is the roughly 1/4-inch triangular hole that sits above and between the secondaries. He said they have been having an issue with these lately. If I adjust idle screw out to get the tps to zero or even 1% the engine will not idle. Note too that the larger the throttle stab, the more brief the time in that cell and the more gradual the change.Here's what I recommend: Get somewhere where you can repeatedly stop and go. You've got it running and warmed up but now you need to set. Hi Chris thanks in advance for any tips. After much diagnosis, I ended up replacing the intake manifold gaskets. This software is going to allow you to open both the configuration file and the datalogs that you create, overlay them and you can get a much better idea of what is happening. He is able to get it to start by quickly depressing the accelerator to at least 60% and releasing. I recently install a sniper efi. I have replaced the IAC motor and the problem remains. Hello Chris. However, I have never found that to be the case. The 10 step set up on your page set my idle perfect and iac perfect a very consitant 700. So glad this was helpful. If they are closed, check the primaries. The IAC should display a 2-8% to bring the idle up to the actual target. Now that you've got your IAC set I'm going to recommend that you run your setup wizard again, which will reset the ECU to the default settings. Thanks for all your help Chris! If your fuel pressure regulator has failed (and they often fail by blocking return fuel and maxing your fuel pressure) then it could lead to rich idle, particularly until your engine gets up to temp. After pumping the pedal a few times at different times it dropped to zero and started to work. I believe that you have this problem solved now with your new inline filter/regulator. But if the idle is a little bit higher then it doesn't have to jump quite as much in response to the load, and tends to react a little bit more smoothly. Turned it off and on again. Try it! I'll have to check again tomorrow. I then saw you guys have an awesome little gauge that can hookup inline to the snipers existing fuel feed?? I'm running a 408 sbc. Properly configured, the Sniper does a fantastic job of responding to the transition from Park to Drive. When I start the motor I have to push on the accelerator pedal for the motor to start. Have you confirmed your fuel pressure at idle is 60 PSI? The throttle position should be zero. Jump on board now! That will happen occasionally, but less as time goes and on and the engine tune stabilizes. It is easily solved by installing a four-hole gasket or four-hole spacer (depending on your hood clearance issues.) (Note: in the original version of this post we had a section about checking the idle speed curve setting. Hello Do you have any clue? Idle was back to normal but iac was at 0. Let To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. My problem with the sniper is the whistling and hard throttle pedal, I have a 700r tranny with a kick down cable. When I shut it off then start it Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. The hold position is part of the response that keeps the car from dying when you come off the throttle. Inj. I.e. It didnt do this with the carb on it. Add To Cart. Bolt on 4150 Flange Carburetor Replacement. It shuts off when coming to a stop sign, at any cruising speed and romdomly at idle in park but never when excelerating. ChrisI finally got everything resolved. Since a key cycle resets it to 0 and out to 30 or wherever You're going to have to clean up the wiring in your engine compartment, In particular, look for spark plug wires that might be running near your throttle position sensor. hard start about 1/2 throttle from stop it bogs down after 3 or 4 seconds.What I Setup: 1965 Impala SS; ZZ6 Crate Engine, EFI Distributor. Also, I was seriously rich at idleso rich it hurt your eyes. A good example of why it's so important to run a good pre filter in the fuel line. 680-700.I can't find any reason other than it looses where it is in the firmware with Covered the IAC port and set idle for 850 ish. $107.95. We will definitely be sticking with Holley from here on out for future retro-fits. Thank you for this guide on setting IAC. I've been trying to correct that 1% small issue/annoyance. Physially manipulating the linkage by hand will generally reveal if you have a sticking linkage that is preventing the TPS from returning from zero. It does this with the engine off. It has gotten a little better after I drove it for three hours today.I want to save the Kik because if I get this working good then I would like to add A C and use the kick for it.Motor is Mopar 360 with mild cam and automatic. Sometimes an engine can produce enough vacuum to pull the secondaries open slightly. See these. Drive great and idles perfect at stop signs. installing and cruising down the highway 70 mph I just wonder if all I have to do I go into much more detail about that in this article on startup tuning. Suddenly, the engine accelerates alone, hears a great deal of air being sucked in, Interesting situation you have. The engine makes very low vacuum at idle. To get it to idle the tps is at 2-3-4% even with linkage disconnected and a return spring installed. This is more of a bit of a reality check. To finish, I rather tightly twisted the TPS signal and ground wires all the way from the controller to the Sniper TPS and very carefully routed them away from sources of RFI. That 60% (which is configurable) is known as the Clear Flood TPS. I've been messing around for a bit trying to eliminate any possible vacuum leaks. I'm new to EFI and have no idea what to try next. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. Your suggestion to remove the PCV valve is just for diagnosis purposes, right? No air should be able to pass. It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. If you hit the gas it pops & backfires through the throttle body. Idles ok, runs great cruising, but from a stand still or downshifting and making a turn, when I get back into it, it wants to fall on its face. It then idles up from 750 to 1100. Lubricate the linkage so there isn't as much native resistance. Given the circumstances I would say that it is either the IAC motor itself or RFI but you seem to have ruled both of those out. Some have suggested mis-setting sets the idle speed at 850 RPM but I suspect it is not a fixed number but rather a delta of about 300 RPM above the target. I' m going to put the 3rd new pump this coming friday. Bryan McTaggart 02/28/2023 news You could install the Holley Dual-Sync Distributor and let the Sniper control your timing. This page was generated at 12:25 AM. I am Japanese who attached Sniper EFI. He thought that something was wrong because when he set the idle 50 RPM below his target the resulting IAC postion was far too big. Initial Baseline Idle Speed Screw Setting, http://forums.holley.com/showthread.neral-IAC-Info, http://documents.holley.com/199r11031r.pdf, https://forums.holley.com/showthread-Idle-Solution, If this is your first visit, be sure to
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